You'll Be My American Sushi Boy

Lauren Bloomberg

John Daley uses his Tokyo-honed skills to slice top-notch fish. Photo: Jenny Miller

        Eleven seats. Three menu options. One display of stunningly fresh fish and a hyped-on-caffeine, quick-talking, American-born, Tokyo-trained sushi chef who starts work when the sun comes up and works through the night and you have New York Sushi Ko, the very new (it was still “friends and family” when we went on a buddy’s recommendation but they still welcomed us in with open arms—as they should considering we opted for the $175 a person seven-course option) and very teensy late-night raw fish house at 91 Clinton Street.

The sleek, minimalist space keeps the spotlight on the food. Photo: Jenny Miller

        Decide if you’d like the three, five or seven-course omakase menu then chill with a beer at the bar and let John Daley do his thing. What is that thing? There’s a play on bacon and eggs showcased in a chawanmushi with large pork jewels magically suspended in the souffle-like egg custard. Pay extra attention when Daley pulls out his handled mesh colander. He’ll place some toro (fatty tuna) inside and grab his blowtorch. As the fish is rendered into a chicharon, the drippings coat the hand-cut tuna tartar below.

      The quality of your sushi rice is most important. At New York Sushi Ko, it’s warm and slightly vinegar-y. The perfect compliment to the procession of sushi that ends the meal. Each piece is dressed as the chef would like you to eat it. Do not mix your wasabi and soy sauce and dunk (don’t do that anyway but that’s a whole other article). I recall at least six pieces ranging from different grades of tuna to sea urchin, a sliver skinned specimen reminiscent of sardine and maybe a mackerel? There could have been more. I should have taken notes. The restaurant is open from 8pm to 2am and we were there at the tail end of the night.

       Note: this restaurant was cash only at the time of this review.

New York Sushi Ko: 91 Clinton St. between Rivington and Delancey Sts.

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